Newmarket town
Soon to be reviewed: Rutland Wine Bar - opened April 2008
THE FOUNTAIN, High Street, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 6662655
"On our last visit, at least five trainers and three jockeys were there. Obviously not a place to put weight on, but the food is good.
"It is a fabulous well known 'eaterie' and a favourite place for a lot of Newmarket residents, though the acoustics could be better, as on some occasions the exuberant noise level can be intrusive.
"The house wine, white at £10.50, is excellent as is the Macon at £16.50, which takes a lot of beating. There is an extensive menu with loads of choices of everything you would expect from a good Chinese restaurant. You must have the crispy duck either a quarter, half or whole - outstanding and thoroughly recommended."
PREZZO, 2 Exeter Road, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 669 676
"Whilst it is part of a chain, it is quite remarkable. I normally think that owner-ran restaurants are the best, but this chain must have an amazing training programme. Most of the staff are foreign, Polish, Czechoslovakian etc, but they speak remarkable English and are most helpful and welcoming.
"An Italian menu which is excellent, from Insalata Livorno (crayfish tails with salad) £4.25 for starters to Involtini di Grandico (crab cakes with fries or salad) £8.95, plus loads of vegetarian options and pizzas, pastas, and insalatas.
"The ambience is most acceptable, they have a wall display of wines, a bar with comfortable seats (where you can smoke (Beryl)), great layout and views of every vehicle in Newmarket, left or right of the building.
"I think better for lunch, mostly you can walk in and it’s not too crowded, but I should book at night though, particularly at weekends.
"Well worth a visit."
SANGDAO THAI RESTAURANT, 160 High Street, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 660646
"Walk in and you are greeted most politely by Thai staff: 'You do look beautiful madam,' - I'm not saying who! The décor is amazing gold and glitter on mirrors and Thai wall plaques, both upstairs (smoking) and downstairs. In future as part of these commentaries I will make comments on the loos! First sign of cleanliness. Here they were immaculate, fresh flowers, linen towels, and hand cream, scented soap, bright mirrors, would pass any inspection.
"So, to the food and atmosphere, we were with several friends and may have been a little boisterous, but in a restrained way! The staff were most courteous and helpful presenting us with a most comprehensive menu, most of which I didn't understand—other than Goong Chup Pang Tod (Prawns in crispy batter). Of course everyone knows this dish. Menu solution - a mix of 6 dishes chosen by the staff, beautifully presented with sculptured decoration on each plate. Again for main course a selection of a variety of Thai food, including beef, duck, scallops, chicken and best of all giant lobster tails, all with great unidentifiable sauces, quite delicious.
"There was a dessert menu which only one of the party chose from. If I could have I would have, but gluttony as I am sure you know is not my forte!
"Well worth a visit, I am sure you would enjoy everything about this restaurant."
NEWMARKET INDIAN CUISINE, High Street, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 660973
"There are several Indian restaurants, and this is supposed by reputation to be the best. It, like most of them, also does take-away.
"Enter a long narrow room with about 20 tables, dim lighting, but pleasant. Big point in its favour - air conditioning. All Indian staff, quite pleasant but no smiles! A huge menu, most of which unfortunately I didn't understand. We are not connoisseurs of Indian food.
"However, the Chablis was good at £20 a bottle. For starters, 6 of us had popadoms with 4 sauces and onion bhajees (excellent) and king prawn butterfly with vegetable samosa (disappointing).
"Main courses a mixture of chicken, lamb tikka, prawn biriani, nan and a sort of vegetable curry, all very acceptable. One ice cream and Gaelic coffees!
"Nothing at all wrong with the place, Indian food is not for me; suggest you do not go there on a Friday or Saturday night though - very near the night clubs. Eventually when Jenko said there was to be a write-up on the web, we were offered a drink on the house - surprisingly everyone declined. We are not open to bribes!"
BEDFORD LODGE HOTEL, Bury Road, Newmarket
Tel:
01638 663 175
"Newmarket's only 4 star hotel, set in 3 acres of secluded gardens is a combination of the classic and the new, originally a Georgian Hunting Lodge built for the Duke of Bedford and fairly recently modernized to a high standard.
"The Bar is a comfortable room to have a coffee or very good bar snacks for lunch. The Bar has been presided over by Richard for many years. The roast beef sandwiches come with all the “bits” and are excellent.
"The Orangery is the main restaurant, typically good 4 star food, good if you’re on an expense account.
"I had a business breakfast £14.50. Who cares? A good atmosphere and a very good 'English' served piping hot with a smile. Nice and quiet to have those private talks."
THE JOCKEY CLUB ROOMS, High Street, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 663 101
"The Jockey Club was formed in the middle of the 18th century, originally as a social club for like-minded.
"Racing and horse breeding gentlemen. It was originally a coffee house and has grown substantially over the years. You will understand that it is steeped in history, and now houses a most valuable and elegant collection of paintings and memorabilia. The insurance cost must be enormous as the paintings alone are worth millions.
"If you visit as a guest or member it is worth while having a tour of 'The ‘Rooms'. They portray a forgotten age and create an atmosphere of great elegance.
"You do not have to be a member to have a function there, you can have a drinks party, a private lunch or dinner and I believe you can stay in the chambers. Suffice it to stay it is not necessarily cheap. For a special occasion it is worth it, I believe one should have the experience of past times elegance now and again. Not many people turn down invitations for a function there.
"I know this series is about food and drink but I have said in the past that ambience is as important.
"A selection of canapes for a drinks party is innovative and elegant. A comprehensive menu is available for dinner functions. The service is sophisticated and elegant, an important place for your special function.
"You can find out much more about 'The Rooms' from a beautiful brochure which describes and illustrates much more than I can do justice to."
ESSENCES, Park Lane, Newmarket
Tel: 01638 607 111
"I am not quite sure where to start, as I have very mixed thoughts about our visit. However, it is advertised as an Indian and Italian restaurant - that in itself is novel. For sure, it has both headings on the massive menu – including 'Curry no Hurry' - I think that is to warn you that the service would be slow - VERY SLOW.
"Its other sections include 'From the Farm' and 'From the Sea'; yes, its meat or fish. Helpful or what! It is not the sort of place to go as a couple, no atmosphere, and I suspect that the service would be even slower, we went with a big crowd as guests, for which we were most grateful. I think the noise level probably helped not hindered the speed of service, however.
"First course was Pompadoms (very good) with 4 different dips, the lemon pickle was quite excellent. Italian first course “Tricola”: Avocado salad, feta cheese, and salad, both reasonably priced at about £4.95.
"Tandoori, Balti, and all sorts of other Indian dishes, huge onion bhaji etc. I think the food was OK I ate it all but couldn't really say what it really was! Genuine Cobra Beer - although it is now brewed in the UK and Pino Grigio wine (at £13) was quite acceptable.
"Whilst we enjoyed the evening, it was the company not the food. I will not be going back."
TATTERSALLS, The Avenue, Newmarket - SALES DAYS ONLY
"An unusual place to talk about food, Tattersalls in Newmarket is for buying and selling horses, but you presumably have to eat as well. You can read everything about Tattersalls on the web, but sufficient to say it has an electric atmosphere. Dreams start or finish here, your mind boggles with the prices of horses that go through the ring. If you're not buying or selling - so what! Have a visit, you will enjoy it.
"Food - Tattersalls Restaurant, table d'hote lunch and dinner, ran by Chimneys caterers - good, bit formal. Buffet room, breakfast, (excellent) lunch, dinner. Self service but good place for quick food or slow if you are watching TV of the sales or racing.
"The gem, however, is the Caffe Barn (behind Somerville rooms) - newly taken over by caterers Bowes of Burwell. The room is more like a Bistro, TV’s around of races and sales as well as 2 internet computers. A totally relaxed atmosphere, most of Tattersalls staff appears to eat in there - must be a good recommendation. Limited menu, Steak, Steak and Steak! Oh, also fish - cod I think. Wine - Gavi £12, Chablis £20. The steaks, fillet or sirloin £13, I promise you they are as good as I have had anywhere, served with perfect fries and salad. Staff most helpful and courteous. Never mind the Sales, go eat steak.
"Only one downturn - no credit cards - I am told it is coming. Needs to be I was running out of cash having previously been to the races."
Outskirts of Newmarket
Soon to be reviewed: The Red Lion (in Kirtling) now a spanish tapas restaurant
SWYNFORD PADDOCKS, Six Mile Bottom
Tel: 01638 570234
"Country house hotel, the management of which try really hard. I wish though I was a hotelier with a couple of million to spend - it would be fabulous - I'd install a pool and health centre and update (or knock down) the rest. Five stars would be easy with it being so near to Newmarket.
"We dropped in for a snack at lunchtime. Had a drink in the Brigadier Gerrard bar (plaque on the wall 18 runs 17 wins!). Good service, pleasant staff. We had a sandwich platter for two £9.50. Excellent.
"However in the conservatory where you can have a full menu, the atmosphere is very 80's. Decor strictly brown, brown and more brown! Needs serious TLC.
"We haven't eaten in the Dining Room for some time, but I am sure that the food is OK, but again the decor needs sorting.
"Worth a visit though, if even to make comparisons."
THE GREEN MAN, London Road, Six Mile Bottom
Tel: 01638 570373
"On the side of the main road, a pub. As we arrived there was a coach partially blocking the car park. I don't do coaches! Inside about ten screaming women on the way from the races; fortunately they soon left.
"Inside a bar surrounded by tables - very ordinary, nice pictures on the wall though, but no atmosphere.
"Restricted menu: 'fresh fish daily, except prawns' – does this indicate that they are not fresh? A small point, but not my restaurant. Beryl had fish and chips (very good), Tom and I had a steak each (quite excellent). The whole bill came to £49 for three of us including four glasses of wine and a pint of Adnams. Good value, I bet Mark won't complain about my expenses on this one (I wish!).
"The mixed part is this: as it is no-smoking (Beryl displeased), we went outside to the back where there is a pleasant covered area with seats for smokers. Here we encountered the Landlord, Richard Clarke, formerly gamekeeper to the Six Mile Bottom Estate and still apparently runs the clay pigeon shoot. The reason the service is slow is that everything is cooked to order.
"By virtue of the position, it will always attract a lot of coaches, good for business I guess...
"If you want a quick meal with good food, fine, but not really a place to go for dinner with a romantic companion - chance would be a fine thing!"
THE OLD PLOUGH, Ashley - 3 miles from Newmarket
Tel: 01638 730110 (You must book well ahead)
"As well as visiting the races, sales, or trainers yards, many people have on their agenda a visit to the Old Plough.
"Hosts Tony and Gina offer top quality, imaginative food in a typical old English pub/restaurant atmosphere.
"Eat in the Bar or Restaurant both as good as each other. You may also enjoy 'people watching' as many famous Owners, Trainers, Jockeys frequently visit as well as non-horsey people.
"Sunday lunch is amazing value £16.50 for three courses with a choice of three roasts and up to ten vegetables.
"Bar meal from £8.50 are to quote another food critic are 'truly memorable'.
"Dinner is served in an old world dining room with tables properly dressed with linen cloths and napkins. Typically a meal for two with a modest bottle of wine is between £60 to £80. Talk to Tony about wine - his list goes from £11.50 to £2,750 a bottle (Chateau d Yquem), not much sold, but he has a Haut Brion 1989 at £975 a bottle and claims to sell 10 cases a year. Who is the famous quaffer that buys this? Not Conrad and Beryl for sure.
"One of our favourite restaurants, only criticism is that some of the portions are huge!"
THE THREE BLACKBIRDS, Woodditton - about 3 miles from Newmarket
Tel: 01638 730 811 (You must book)
"A traditional country pub with a friendly atmosphere. It has a good reputation for food and justly deserved. There is a bar on the left with a large fireplace, typical old English atmosphere, where you can have bar snacks (and smoke - for the moment anyway).
"On the right is the dining room which again is old worldly. The staff are friendly and courteous, there is a comprehensive menu of about 8 starters and 8 or 10 main courses. This menu is changed weekly.
"I had deep fried whitebait with home-made tartar sauce - a huge portion, enough for a main course, £6.95. For main course, I had salmon in a filo pastry, quite excellent. All mains were about £16, plus a very good wine list with sensible prices from about £12 - max. £22.
"All in all a most pleasant evening with good food and great atmosphere, but you do have to book!"
THE AFFLECK ARMS, Dalham - about 3 miles from Newmarket
Tel: 01638 500 306
"I thought I had been to all the eating places around Newmarket, but I missed this one. Firstly, Dalham is a lovely old fashioned village with thatched cottages and a stream running through it. Certainly worth a walk around.
"Paul and Michelle Hunt are the new owners, who appear to have refurbished the pub/ restaurant, and have done a good job. Loads of tables outside (for the smoker) and the sunny weather (if we ever get any).
"Inside is a typical village pub bar, and off it are three areas for dining. The menu is quite comprehensive - 6 starters and 12 mains and 9 or 10 desserts. All meals are freshly prepared so it's not a fast food outlet.
"All the starters are about £4 and vary from asparagus to king prawns, the mains are all about £8, apart from a T-Bone steak at £18. We had battered cod and chips at £8.50 and a rib eye steak at £15. All most acceptable and pleasantly presented. Wine list comprehensive from about £12 for a good Pinot Grigio.
"The Landlord is the chef and Michelle the front house lady, all very welcoming and well worth a visit for somewhere unostentatious."
THE STAR INN, Lidgate - about 7 miles from Newmarket
Tel: 01638 500275 (You must book)
Voted nationally as Pub of the Year 2005
"If you were driving around you would hesitate to stop as it looks a bit dreary from outside. However do, and inside its old world charm, captivates with two rooms with pine tables, and even a pin table! There is also a small dining room, but the Bars with log fires are much more comfortable.
"Terri, the owner will explain in her enchanting Catalan accent every dish on the comprehensive blackboard menus, the food is Mediterranean with a strong Catalan/Spanish influence. Her staff are young foreign, knowledgeable, helpful and charming.
"House white wine £12.50, outstanding quality and value, is supported by a large wine list. Starters — Clams with Artichokes, Carpacchio of Venison, Wild Boar with Strawberries at £5.90 plus about twenty more choices.
"Main course are too many to mention, but all different and innovative, never having had it in my long life I chose Dorado a la Sol, large delicious fish wrapped in rock salt and cooked and then cracked open at your table, quite fantastic, £15.50. Try the treacle tart to finish with.
"At lunch time similar menu, but also two courses for £12.
"This is a 'must' to visit. I asked Terri and Tony why they were so successful, deep thought: "Very simple, good staff and nice customers." We for sure will go back frequently."
The surrounds
RAVENWOOD HALL, Rougham - Near Bury St. Edmunds (Junc. 45 of A14) Tel: 01359 270345
"A 3 Star Hotel with 14 bedrooms, and a comfortable bar and elegant restaurant. The Hotel is set in beautiful grounds with a heated outdoor pool and cricket pavilion, used for weddings and private functions.
"Craig Jarvis is the owner and is a well known Point to Point rider and has competed in the Newmarket Plate( race foe amateur riders.)
"We have often had Sunday lunch there in the Dining Room. It can be a bit expensive, but perfectly OK — Sunday lunches should be. The Bar food has six or seven blackboard menus and is served on undressed tables, it really is OK but not much more than up-market bar food.
"Something is missing though, I can't put my finger on it, maybe atmosphere or my mood! It just doesn't click with me."
MAISON BLEUE, Churchgate Street, Bury St Edmunds
Tel: 01284 760623 Website www.maisonbleue.co.uk
"3 F’s (not what you think!) FRENCH, FISH, FANTASTIC.
"This visit they were exceptional, great atmosphere, properly dressed tables, French staff, French atmosphere, first class service, and food (if you like fish), to dream for. The fish comes from Norfolk, or straight from Scotland or on overnight delivery from Billingsgate. Most innovative combinations for each course and brilliant presentation.
"They are a restaurant that makes no pretence in being in the French style, they are the authentic thing. I've had much worse in France at 5 star establishments.
"Menus galore, Plat du Jour £8.95—1 course; Starter & Main course £13.95; and other combinations as well as A La Carte.
"We had a variety of fish, one starter 6 Irish rock Oysters with shallots, vinegar and brown bread £7.25 (Bread however was a fruit bread, walnut & fruit—a bit odd), but great value. I had fillet of Sea Bass with sliced potato scales and a white wine sauce £13.95. Quite astonishingly good.
"Not somewhere to hurry your food but goes up the scale in my choice of good places to go."
THE PHOENIX, The Green, Histon (CB4 4JA)
Tel: 01223 2337766
"A little way from Newmarket (just off the A14), but worth stopping on the way to or from the town. Was a pub, now an elegant, atmospheric Chinese restaurant with a nice relaxed atmosphere and world-class service and food.
"We asked the Maitre D’ for a mixed selection of starters from the menu. We had a platter consisting of sesame toast, spare ribs, satay chicken, prawns, chilli chicken and seaweed, then fresh (in their original shells) scallops. All excellent. The main course crispy fried duck.
"It was more than enough and great value - not just the food, everything.
"It is everything that a restaurant should be."
THE HOLE IN THE WALL, Little Wilbraham (Nr Six Mile Bottom)
Tel: 01223812282
"Originally a XV Century Pub, and in the 80’s a place for 'Jack the Lads' — the Assistant Trainers of their day, now they are the doyens of Warren Hill!
"We went there in the autumn - good food, bit pricey, but enjoyable. The landlord was always there and never too busy to chat and advise.
"It now has new owners, bringing big changes - prices lower by 30%, no tablecloths, no atmosphere, indifferent service, food OK though. The chef, who I presumed to be the owner, kept walking in and out without speaking. When I paid the bill I tried to introduce myself, and asked if he was the owner. "Yes," he said and walked away. That says it all for me. It is a great pity. He will make more money than the previous tenant as it is full, for now.
"Not one for me."
OTHER FAVOURITES OF THE TOMPKINS' TEAM:
THE WRESTLERS, Newmarket Road, Cambridge Tel: 01223 566553 (Unlikely looking place for a Thai curry - don't go for romance, just the food)
THE RED LION, Icklingham Tel: 01638 711698 (Traditional pub food)
SCUTCHERS, Long Melford Tel: 01787 310 200 (Bistro menu, worth the journey)
THE OLD FIRE STATION, Ely Tel: 01353 662582 (Well-established and well-known, an art gallery too, near the cathedral)
THE BEEHIVE, Horringer, Nr Bury St Edmunds Tel: 01284 735260 (Gastro pub set in pretty village)
THE DOG AND DUCK, Linton Tel: 01223 891 257 (Relaxed village pub)
THE CROWN AND PUNCHPOWL, Horningsea Tel: 01223 860 643 (Picturesque pub / restaurant in lovely setting, just off A14)
D'ARRYS, King Street, Cambridge Tel: 01223 505015 (Great menu, sax player on Sundays, fantastic staff - unfortunately bookings not taken)
EFES, King Street, Cambridge Tel: 01223 500005 (Atmospheric, friendly - a bit cramped for some, see your kebabs being cooked on the grill)
Others in Cambridge include chains like Strada and Chez Gerard (park in Park Lane car park) or Browns (opposite the Fitzwilliam Museum); others in Bury St Edmunds include chains like Tasca and Ask (park on the Market Square). Better still, hire a punt in Cambridge on a summer's evening and take your own picnic - stopping off for another bottle of wine at one of the riverside pubs.